Monday, February 25, 2008

Whew...

I was riding into the city on a chapa the other day. It was beginning to reach overflow capacity, so I gave up my seat to an elderly woman so she wouldn't have to stand the whole way. She and I started making jokes with each other (her asking me to pay for her ride and I telling her that she must have been drinking too much Canhu). Before long we had the whole bus laughing with us and being entertained by our banter. After a few people got out, I had the chance to sit down in front of the woman while we continued our conversation. All of a sudden, the woman reaches her arm around my neck, pulls me in and kisses me on the cheek.

I didn't know how to react. Thank God I had on my sunglasses, because I just started to cry. It was the first real affection I've experienced since moving here. It was genuine, like a grandmother hugging her grandchild. Without sounding overly dramatic, it made me feel like a person again, and really brought a bit of humanity back into perspective. Mozambicans are so reserved when it comes to public affection that it caught me off guard. Of course I paid the 15 Mets for the woman's ride. It just seemed appropriate. What she gave me far exceeded what I paid.

"Well, it’s hot and there’s a lot to do..."

A quote overheard from the colleague of another volunteer when describing (in the best English she could muster) how things were going in Mozambique to her friend. We both thought this was an accurate, and quite comical, description of current life here.

This morning I got off the phone with Jeffrey, a buddy of mine and former PC volunteer stationed in the Ukraine, and am positively giddy. Three years ago, Jeff, in his 40s, decided to leave LA and join Peace Corps. A successful manager in the non-profit world, I was impressed with his ability to give it up for a couple years to take on this new life, one that apparently had interested him for years. When I met Jeff last year at Pride (a chance meeting that can only be described as luck or fate), I was impressed and drawn to his enthusiasm for travel and his willingness to try new experiences. We had one or two mutual acquaintances and have since build up the beginning of a good friendship. In August Jeffrey is coming to visit me and we will travel Swaziland and Mozambique for a couple weeks. I can’t wait to finally start to explore a bit of this continent with someone! However, before we even began to talk about our trip, his first words were advice about the blog. He suggested that I be more descriptive about my life here and what I was experiencing. So, I will try and elaborate more in the future about life in Chonguene.


Things lately have been interesting. Last week was a real kicker after NOTHING seemed to be going right. Problems with my bank, kinks at work, projects not materializing like I hoped and a general frustration at the world were only exacerbated by the fact that I was grumpy from not sleeping well lately. The past few weeks there have been a few break-ins in my neighbourhood, so I have been more alert than usual. At night, I keep hearing these sounds like someone in the house or at the windows. I would get up throughout the night to check, finding no one there and convincing myself that I am simply paranoid and to go back to sleep. Finally one evening after I had turned out my light, I heard noises I was positive were coming from inside the house. Slowly I grabbed my headlamp and crept into the main room to get a peek. After turning on my light, I saw my cat…no, not my cat….but a similar looking cat eating Sammy’s food. Realizing that my sleepless nights have been caused by this damn feline, I went berserk, screaming bloody murder and scaring the thing half to death. She lept up and tried to jump out the window but my curtains were in the way, thus thwarting her escape. As she swatted at the curtains, I swatted at her with my headlamp (disassembling it in the process). And after making a ridiculous scene at this poor cat that simply was hungry and wanted food, she made it out the window; both of us exhausted from the ordeal. Now, a dog in the area is stealing the food of my puppy, Chissy....ugh.


This week has been significantly better. I have tried to take a more care-free attitude to things in my life that are outside of my control (not easy giving my Type-A tendencies) and to try and go with the flow. To keep busy, I have been collecting information for a grant on starting up a hydroponics micro-farming system that my friend Pey (another RPCV) sent me. I have also been writing a proposal for a pork project with the local elder housing facility to provide fertilizer for their individual gardens and meat to their community. Tuesday, I met with the local school director, a nun/professor and about 15 students to start up a communications group at the school focusing on theatre and journalism. I put their library on the back burner until my next trip to Maputo when I can meet with officials at the Portuguese and Brazilian Embassies about donating books. Finally, I have begun writing the grant for my project with milking goats with Heifer International, to be in coordination with the area health post. How many of these projects will pan out and materialize, I have no idea. Past PCVs would say few, but I figure if I shoot for 100%, I will be happy with whatever I get done by mid-service next January.


It has been surprisingly wet this week. Despite it supposedly being the rainy season, this year has been drier than usual, resulting in a smaller crop output at the markets. So this recent dampening of the soil was a welcomed change. Since being in Moz I have come to love the sound of rain banging on the tin roof. Even the lightest sprinkle makes it nearly impossible to talk to another person, and yet it is remarkably conducive for pause and reflection. The book I am currently on, Reading Lolita in Tehran, was given to me by Pey who has family history in the Middle East, and is a fantastic memoir about experiencing literature in an oppressive society. Most every night after dinner I sit on my porch to watch dusk roll in; my book in hand and my new puppy on my lap. I am usually in bed between 8 and 9 at night since my mornings still start between 5 and 5:30, when I feed the pets, do a little yoga and begin to plan for my day. People at work say that I read and work too much (guilty!) and that I should paciar (verb for strolling without purpose) more. So, lately I have tried to use free time in the mornings to walk around to see more of the community, and have been consistently impressed with the natural beauty of Chonguene. Thanks to the soccer ball that Josh and Lyne gave me, I have also started going out to the field to play with some local kids. They are teaching me how totally uncoordinated I am, but I’m picking up a few things.


In addition to Caroline from training, I have been casually adopted by 2 other Mozambican moms. First is Dona Gina, a woman who lost her husband a few years ago and who owns one of the local logas (store) that doubles as a restaurant. I was introduced to her on my first day in town when, not having any way of cooking for myself, she prepared my meals for the first few days. A stoutly woman (what Mozambicans would call healthy), she and I immediately got along and bonded over our love of cooking. Her talent is an bittersweet one since most people in Chonguene don’t have the money to eat out, thus her skills mostly go unused and unappreciated. Now every time I bake a new dish such as banana bread or a crumble of some sort, I take some to her. She in turn does the same for me with any sweets she makes. Quite a symbiotic relationship we have developed. My second Moz Mom, Herminia, turned out to be my organization’s case worker from South African AIDS Trust, an organization that shepards 25 community organizations in Mozambique. Another healthy woman (who speaks English remarkably well), we met when she came to my organization for a monitoring and evaluation session. We ended up talking and after finding out I was a political science major in college, she was eager to tell me, in her half-joking manner, that her teenage son also wanted to be a political science major at university and if I could try and persuade him from making such a mistake! After laughing, I convinced her that such a discipline wasn’t the end of the world but that I would talk to him anyways. Since then we have traded text messages regularly, she has taken me to meet her mother in Xai Xai City and has invited me to visit her and her son in Maputo next time I am in town.


Finally to report, this time of year is when the fruits of the Marula tree begin to fall and are harvested to make Canhu, a simple 2-day fermentation of the fruit juice to kill off any bugs and make it suitable for consumption. What is so remarkable about this is that it is considered to be the traditional drink of Mozambique (or of the southern half at least) and is prohibited by law to be sold. People collect the fruit, ferment it and have parties for family and friends. Even the poorest of Mozambicans are able to take part in this celebration, in an act of equitable enjoyment, resistant to class, status or the size of one’s personal wealth. You have to drink about 5 glasses of the stuff before you begin to feel the alcoholic effects, but its impact on the community is realized immediately. I was trying to think of a comparable tradition that I have witnessed and the closest I have come is the Beaujolais Festival for the French. Wouldn’t it be nice if we as Americans could have something, just one time a year, where we break down the barriers of class and share a beer, a hotdog, or whatever, together with friends and strangers alike.


Maybe I can send some Marula seeds stateside and start a new tradition…


Cheers!
ZS

Tuesday, January 29, 2008


Last night I explained the concept of astronomy to a young man in my village who has taken a liking to me. It was amazing to watch his eyes light up when I told him about the stars and how they were like our sun but much larger and much farther away. How the earth revolves around the sun (thought that was a basic concept, but I guess not) and how we are among billions of stars and planets in the universe, comparing Earth to sand on a beach. Quite frankly I was pretty pleased with myself given the limits on my vocabulary. I mean, I wasn’t explaining String Theory or anything, but still…


Today the monthly shipment of food aid came, in the form of cornmeal and lentils, and we distributed it to the local activistas. Also on hand were the sick and destitute that rely on this monthly event to sustain them for the coming weeks. There are about 70 of them waiting under the big tree that sits in front of our office, since it is far too hot not to sit in the shade. I look around at the faces; some joking with each other to pass the time, some coughing, many nursing babies. They line up to receive their allotments. After everything is done, two crippled old women who apparently were not on the list to receive aid get on their hands and knees to pick the forgotten lentils out of the dirt so that they will have a little extra food to eat tonight. No one seems to mind as I guess this is a regular occurrence. It is sad to see this kind of poverty. These women, some abandoned by their husbands after learning they were HIV positive, are struggling to live each day to buy food and medicine. We have poor people in America, but at least with us there is a safety net. The government can step in and prevent most people from getting to the point of sheer destitution. Here, if your family isn’t there to care for you, you are out of luck.


During training we were discussing the importance of acclimating to a new culture and what that meant. One of the volunteers piped up and talked about how she wanted to really get in and live like her community lives, face what they face and get the "real experience." This term, "real experience," sent a shock through me and I had to speak up. I mentioned that there is no way that we can truly understand what the members of our community are experiencing and it’s insulting to think that we can. At any moment, without explanation, we can call Peace Corps to say we want out, and within 24 hours, we’re on a plane for the states. We have round the clock medical care if needed, money for food, not to mention the background of a great education to give us the tools to think critically (some more than others) about challenges we might face. While I shouldn’t have gotten angry (they girl had good intentions) it startled me that anyone could think that it was possible to even come close to walking in another person’s shoes. Paul Farmer said it best, "They don’t want you to live like they do. They want you to put on a pair of slacks and a tie and actually better their lives."


Over the next few weeks I am talking to activistas, community members, and those I work with to try and find out what are problems that people are willing to come together on to fix given the right resources. The resources I can find, but it’s the passion that has to come from them.

Monday, February 11, 2008

New Puppy...

Last week, at 8 o'clock at night, my neighbor showed up unexpectedly with a 3 week old puppy in a cardboard box and gave it to me. Immediately upon exiting the box, it peed on me. I named him Pecker.

Two days later, upon a more careful expection, I realized that Pecker's pecker wasn't a pecker at all (I, of all people, am not the expert on such matters). So now her name is Chissy. Despite being too young to have been weaned from her mother, she is doing great and I am fattening her up with lots of fresh cow's milk from the Xai Xai market and some xima that I cook myself. When I got her, she was covered in fleas and they had chewed about 15 patches into her skin. Thankfully I had already bought a great flea shampoo in Maputo and as of today she is flea free and her skin is healing nicely.

I will have pictures soon but wanted to announce the new addition. She is absolutely precious and I can tell she is smart as a whip. I told the Mozambicans that I planned to train her to use the bathroom outside and do tricks. I might as well have said that I planned to teach an iron skillet how to do long division.

Yet another fun experience.

Sunday, January 20, 2008

Pictures...

I think.

Hopefully if you don't get my e-mails, you can click on this link and it will allow you to sign up for Snapfish and see them...I think.

http://www2.snapfish.com/share/p=35181200656456171/l=347889552/g=35776459/otsc=SYE/otsi=SALB

Good luck!

ZS

Friday, January 18, 2008

Mozambicans LOVE Michael Bolton and Bryan Adams...

I only mention this to first set the tone of my current life. I mean, what person, DOESN'T want to be woken everyday at 5am to "When a Man Loves a Woman" and the song from Robin Hood???

Sorry for this being so long, but here we go...

Ola Amigos! Thank you so much for the Christmas cards, packages and well-wishes. From stockings to Gamecock goodies, my other volunteers are ever so slightly jealous. I'm OK with this, of course...just saying. After a month o acclimating to my new community, going through Christmas and new years and doing a little traveling up the coast, I finally have time to sit down and update everyone. I also have new pictures on Snapfish and will try to post the address for those who need it.

To start, Chonguene is a beautiful community. I am living in the house of my director's son while his son's family lives in a smaller house about 30 feet from me. At first I thought this would be awkward, with a stranger living in their new home. However they were so excited to have a volunteer that I was immediately welcomed as part of the family. The house is charming and has a veranda that faces West, so I enjoy the amazing sunsets each evening as I read my book or eat dinner. I have spent the last couple of weeks crafting various things to fill the rooms and make it a little more "homey". The walls are mostly bare, but I am on the search for things to hang and colorful items to brighten the rooms and windows (curtains are being made as we speak). I am cooking like crazy to keep my mind occupied (I even made a Dutch oven). I also inherited an adorable 1 year old cat named Samora. Most of you know I am NOT a cat person, but as soon as I met her we fell for each other. Well, either that or she is just responding to finally being fed regularly. Regardless, a puppy will follow shortly. The letters and packages are great especially since the are coming to the Xai Xai address and I can retrieve them separate from Peace Corps.

My organization, AREPACHO, is amazing. Created in 2001, they have worked to build themselves up to best serve the community. There are roughly 80 Activistas (individuals who help bring services to specific areas in Chonguene) and some staff. We distribute food aid (we also have a machamba/farm to help supplement the food), develop HIV educational programs, and work to create economic development through income generating projects. Chonguene is a poor community but rich in natural resources (as they say, Chonguene is rich, it's the people who are poor). My yard alone has 7 types of fruit trees. However, jobs are extremely scarce, with most people relying on subsistence farming as their primary, if not sole, source of income. When everyone in the organization came together on the first Friday, I was introduced to the staff and the Activistas started singing to me. It was so beautiful I just about came to tears. Afterwards I began asking questions to gauge what what areas I might be able to offer assistance. They were quick to respond. It looks like I will be teaching them English (a surprising tool since almost all the countries surrounding Moz speak English), teaching them how to use the computers (they have 3!...Microsoft programs are also in English), setting them up for the Internet to research grants, expanding their current programs while developing new ones, starting up a income generating project teaching women to sow, building (and I mean BUILDING) an interactive child centre, and possibly starting a dairy program ( I'm talking with Heifer Intl on this one). Not too bad, right? I figure in 2 years I should just about know how to squat properly to use the bathroom....the child centre should be a piece of cake. I can't joke too much though. One of my friends in Zambezia had her boss drive in from the city and suggest, on her 2nd day, that she start a day hospital. This is the kind of work that is expected, and I am so eager to see the kinds of projects that result from our class of volunteers at the end of our service.

The holidays were a little awkward as it was the first time away from family and friends. Thankfully my director invited me to join his extended family for Christmas to eat, drink and dance. He said that we would be having pork and I immediately thought, "Yum, Honey Baked ham!" And then of course I saw the enormous, hairy, black pig they had strung up in the backyard. I was OK with the idea of killing this animal since I had murdered more than my fair share of delicious chickens in Mafuine. However, I wasn't exactly sure how we were going to go about killing Ole Wilbur. At that moment someone brought out a mallet and went all "Lord of the Flies," bashing in Piggy's head. After hours of scraping, cutting and quartering, we had some of the best pork I have put in my mouth to this day. New years was significantly less bloody as I got together with volunteers in Xai Xai to celebrate with duck in banana leaves at the house/restaurant of an Ex-pat from Britain.

Because the rate of drunk driving skyrockets during the days around Christmas and New Years, my friend Katie and I waited till January 3rd to take a little vacation away. Traveling up the Coast on the EN1, we took a butt-numbing 9 hour Chapa ride to Vilankulo where we stayed at our friend Lily's house by the ocean, which thankfully had indoor plumbing and a shower. There we took advantage of the touristy market shops and bought things like...Gouda! They, taking advantage of Lily's fridge/freezer, we made...frappicinos! I swear, for a minute I almost forgot that I fazer xixi in a hole in the ground. The next day we hired some Mozambicans to take us on their sailboat to the archipelagos off the coast to do some amazing snorkeling. This only strengthened my desire to go scuba diving here. After leaving Lily, we went 5 hours south to Inhambane and Maxixe, two towns separated by a beautiful bay. Inhumane is an adorable town that has maintained it's charm while developing to meet the needs of the growing tourist population. Now I am back in Chonguene ready to begin and hopefully not disappoint an organization that is responsible for so many and expects so much. Two years is a long time but the general consensus from volunteers is that it goes fast.

The first thing that went on my wall in my house was a map of the United States that my friend Jeff, a former Ukraine PCV, sent me. When I get a little down, I look over the map and recognize various locations that have special significance. I see Rockland, Maine where my mother used to take us in the summers for the Lobster Festival and to see her family's cabin on the lake. I see Alpine Texas where Dad took us to see Grammy and to look for arrowheads and then to Marfa (also on the map) to see the mysterious Marfa Lights. I see highway 10 that bisects the country where Jimmy and I went cross-country after graduation to live for two fun-filled years in Los Angeles with Josh, Ash, Lyne and Cami (best decision I have ever made). It is also in LA that I met some truly amazing friends who gave me some great memories. For only being 24 I am unbelievably lucky to have such positive experiences and recollections. My hope is that in 2 years, I can put up a map of Mozambique in my apartment in the States and relive a newer set of stories, equally as poignant and just as influential on my life.

Looks like it's time to get to work.

Obrigado!

ZS

Friday, December 7, 2007

And the 2 Year Mark Begins....

Hey Kids,

I woke up this morning to the sound of rain (good for the machambas, not so good for my clothes) and also the sound of my stomach grumbling. After a talented bout of acrobatic skill trying to remain upright while straddling the wet chimney latrine, holding on to my toilet paper and an umbrella, I got dressed and waited with the other people in my village for PC to take us to Maputo. The ceremony was at the Ambassador's residence (Despite Moz not currently having a formal ambassador). To our surprise, the former head of the Peace Corps Washington was in town, as he is the American Ambassador to the UN Programs in Rome (complicated, I know), and decided to join the ceremony. We gorged our self on food and Lychee juice and got a nice goodbye from our outgoing Country Director, Dave, who is leaving at the end of January. So as of this morning, I am officially done with training and am a Peace Corps Volunteer. We only had 5 people leave the program early, for a variety of reasons, out of nearly 70 trainees which is pretty darn good.

Tomorrow we are delivered to site and I will begin setting up my home and meeting my community. We had Supervisors conference this past week and I got the opportunity to meet a woman who works in my organization. From what she said, the group sounds great and does some fantastic work with children. I will wait until I observe everything for myself to delve into what exactly they do, and what I will be helping them with. I meet my supervisor on Sunday since he is going out of town Monday, and I am excited for it. Plus, I am inheriting a cat from another volunteer after the holidays, so will let you know how that turns out.

ALERT: I have a new Mailing address that will come straight Xai Xai, were I can pick it up. You can still send things to the PC office in Maputo, but I won't be able to get it until a driver happens to be passing by Xai Xai, which is about once every month or two. The address is:

Zachery Scott, PCV
C.P. 85
Xai Xai, Gaza, Mozambique
Airmail (Always best to put this)

Some of you might know that Gaza has been ranked as one of the highest areas of infection for HIV/AIDS in Mozambique, for a variety of reasons, with many areas hitting close to a 20% infection rate. I and the other volunteers have a great deal of work ahead of us and I look forward to having a couple weeks to set up my site and enjoy the holidays before really digging in.

Thanks for everything and enjoy the holidays. I will try and get an update out as soon as I have my bearings. Keep the letters coming. I love hearing about how everyone is doing back in the states.

Much Love,

ZS